Untitled at the Whitney
99 Gansevoort Street
New York, NY 10014
+ 1 212 570-3670
BY ANTONIO GALLONI | SEPTEMBER 30, 2016
Ricotta, heirloom tomatoes, aged balsamic, grilled bread
Caraflex cabbage dumpling, sesame, jalapeno vinaigrette
Fried fish lettuce wrap, okra, radishes
Beef tartare, shaved broccoli, crispy garlic
Mussels, romesco, fairytale eggplant
Pole beans, peaches, turnip kimchi
Sea bass, corn, sweet peppers, coconut curry
Roasted and fried chicken, new potatoes, salsa verde
Matcha cake, strawberries, almond sesame brittle
Caramelized cheesecake, raspberry, honeycomb brittle
2002 Domaine Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
2004 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Annata
2004 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
I didn’t think it was possible, but Executive Chef Michael
Anthony and his team outdid themselves with this spectacular dinner. Over the
last few months Untitled has become one of my favorite spots in Manhattan.
Anthony’s cooking pulses with a kind of invigorating freshness that makes it
easy to taste 10 or more dishes over the course of an evening and never feel
burdened in any way. A week later, Pete Wells at the New York Times awarded Gramercy
Tavern, where Anthony is Executive Chef/Partner, a coveted three-star
review brimming with praise. I was not at all surprised.
Josh Raynolds turned me on to Untitled earlier this year.
That night we let the kitchen cook for us. It was a tremendous dinner. I have
since been back twice and have yet to order anything. Well, with one exception.
If the fried fish lettuce wraps are on the menu, they are a must. For
everything else, I have placed myself in the hands of the kitchen. Each dinner
has been better than the last.
As is the case at all of Danny Meyer’s restaurants,
hospitality is on another level at Untitled. There are no tablecloths and no
dress code. All the emphasis is on food and wine.
tomatoes, aged balsamic, grilled bread
The ricotta with heirloom tomatoes, aged balsamic and grilled
bread was an ideal starter on this warm, muggy New York summer night. My
favorite dish, the fried fish lettuce wrap, served with okra and radishes, was
once again delicious. The only issue with the caraflex cabbage dumplings is
that they disappeared too quickly. Bold, lusty flavors dominated the mussels
with romesco, fairytale eggplant, another dish that disappeared pretty much as
soon as it hit the table. The pole beans, peaches and turnip kimchi dish was a
bit more adventurous and eccentric, but it worked. Of the mains, I especially
enjoyed the roasted and fried chicken with new potatoes and salsa verde.
Fried fish lettuce
wrap, okra, radishes
I rarely, if ever, eat dessert, but I will happily eat
whatever comes out of Untitled’s kitchen. Light and refreshing, the Matcha cake
with strawberries and almond sesame brittle was a great way to finish dinner.
Matcha cake, strawberries, almond sesame brittle
Beverage Director Eduardo Porto Carreiro has put
together a small, but very carefully chosen list with a number of plums. On
this night we drank wines from my cellar but on another visit, a few weeks
prior, I was thrilled to find Arnot-Roberts’ 2014 Old Vine White Wine Heinstein
Vineyard and Tyler’s 2013 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Old-Vine both on the
list. The production of both of those wines is just a few barrels, which should
give readers a pretty good idea of the kinds of wines that are on the list.
I approached both Chablis with some trepidation. After all,
drinking older white Burgundies is fraught with risks today. Luckily both of
our whites were in terrific shape. The 2002
Chablis Les Preuses, from Vincent
Dauvissat, was everything mature Chablis should be. Gently softened by time
in bottle, the 2002 was rich, open-knit and expansive, with plenty of orchard
fruit, dried pear, almond, floral-infused honey and chamomile overtones. The
power and inherent richness of the vintage was very much in evidence, and yet
the wine gained freshness and energy over time. We opened the wine about an
hour in advance, but it was at its best after about three hours in the
decanter. William Fèvre’s 2004 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
was a much bigger surprise given how many issues the domaine has had with
premature oxidation. This bottle was almost shockingly young, with pale green
overtones, fresh orchard fruit, herbs and expressive white floral notes. I can
only hope my remaining bottles show as well.
I also brought along two 2004 Biondi-Santi Brunellos to taste side-by-side. In this vintage,
the differences between the Annata
and the Riserva bottlings are not as
many as they can be. Both wines are aromatically intense, focused and built for
the long haul. The Riserva has a touch more sweetness, depth and richness
through the middle, the result of older vines and vinification in oak. Both
Brunellos will benefit from further cellaring, although opening them today is
not a crime as long as the wines get a good bit of time in a decanter.
Readers who have a chance should not miss an opportunity to
dine at Untitled. Michael Anthony and his team are at the top of their game.