Bordeaux 2009   margaux bottles

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On

France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, March 2019

The Bordeaux 2009s were hailed upon release during a unique primeur campaign, though the crucial test would come when the wines reached 10 years of age. Now it’s time to put them to that test. Two tastings, one sighted and one blind, confirmed magnificent highs...yet no vintage should be beyond criticism.

Sociando mallet line up

Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015

France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, March 2019

How did the admiration of an estuary view result in the resurrection of one of the most singular estates on the Left Bank? The story of Jean Gautreau is fascinating and worth telling in this, the 50th year since he bought Sociando-Mallet.

Hero image best bottle burgundy

Bottles Never Forgotten - Burgundy Edition

France: Burgundy, featured

Neal Martin, Mar 2019

Imagine if you asked 102 Burgundy winemakers: What is the most memorable bottle of wine you have ever drunk? Imagine no longer. And find out which winemaker never drinks wine.

Yquem 1869 copy

Cellar Favorite: 1869, 1879 & 1893 d’Yquem

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, March 2019

It was not until the 1930s that tastes began shifting away from sweet wines to dry reds, though d’Yquem will never relinquish its status as Bordeaux’s best sweet wine, a reputation consecrated by the 1855 classification as its sole Premier Cru Supérieur.

Jessica pratt edit

Beyond Wine: Album Review of Quiet Signs – Jessica Pratt

Beyond Wine

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Quiet Signs is a late night album, the kind you slip on after the kids have gone to bed. Dim the lights, close your eyes and just wallow in this music.

Madeira island vineyard

Hurdling Over Time: 19th-Century Madeira

Portugal, featured

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

In 2019 Madeira celebrates 600 years as a populated island. This report examines the history of Madeira wine and why its apparent agelessness. Focused on a momentous tasting of 19th-century Terrantez and augmented by additional notes, with a combined bottle age of 6,000 years, it is a veritable journey through time.

Egon muller 1971 ba

Cellar Favorite: 1971 Egon Müller Scharzhof Scharzhofberger Riesling Beerenauslese

germany: Mosel, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

I have not drunk many 1971 Rieslings, but whenever the occasion does arise, I tend to be blown away, which is what happened when Egon Müller IV poured a birth-year gem in Beaune last November.

Hero image clos de tart line up copy bright

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016

France, France: Burgundy, featured

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Over the years, I have been fortunate to participate in three or four verticals of Clos de Tart. Yet I had never undertaken a comprehensive tasting that spans decades until Jordi Oriols-Gil organized a unique retrospective covering more than 50 years at Ten Trinity in London.

Portland starter

Vinous Table: Portland, London, UK

United Kingdom, Vinous Table

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

I came away from this dinner impressed by the restaurant, since the service and food had been exquisite, and with a higher appreciation of Chablis than ever before. If this evening set out to demonstrate the apotheosis of Chablis, then it is “job done.” These wines may actually have surpassed my high expectations.

Kumeu river line up

To Paint A Picture: Kumeu River Chardonnay 2006-2017

New Zealand, featured

Neal Martin, Feb 2019

Kumeu River is New Zealand's greatest Chardonnay producer, one that is genuinely world class. Following the most comprehensive tasting ever conducted, this article traces the story of the Brajkovich family, details their vineyards and philosophies, to find out how they make such bloody good Chardonnay.