Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Jan 2020
Recently I encountered a bottle of 1924 Filhot, the oldest example that I have tasted, and it proved that Filhot can create a wonderful, life-affirming, vibrant and downright delicious Sauternes that effortlessly defies time.
Cellar Favorite: 1957 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
Over the last two decades I have visited practically all the major domaines in the Côte d’Or. There is one glaring and unforgivable omission: Ramonet.
Cellar Favorite: 2014 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
I had tasted many vintages from barrel but never the finished article until a friend from the Far East invited me to choose any bottle from the enormous wine list at Maison de Colombier in Beaune. I knew instantly which one I wanted: the 2014 Clos des Lambrays from Taupenot-Merme. And it had only taken me 20 years!
Cellar Favorite: 1966 Dow’s Vintage Port
Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
Nineteen sixty-six has long been an undervalued year for Port, especially given the across-the-board quality of the wines, many of which can stand toe-to-toe with their 1963 siblings.
Cellar Favorite: 1978 & 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2019
I must confess a penchant for mature Châteauneuf-du-Pape, though sadly I do not have many opportunities to drink it. It’s almost more difficult to track down ancient bottles of Rhône than of Burgundy.
Cellar Favorite: 1939 & 1950 Cheval Blanc
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Dec 2019
There is always a frisson of excitement in coming eyeball to eyeball with a prewar bottle of Bordeaux, especially one from a vintage dismissed and written out of history.
Cellar Favorite: 2013 Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Dec 2019
When I visited the domaine in Chambolle-Musigny in November 2019, Mugnier poured me his latest vintage to see the light of day.
Cellar Favorite: 1968 Cappellano Barolo
Italy: Piedmont, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2019
I was very fortunate to run into this exquisite bottle of Cappellano’s 1968 Barolo recently. As it turns out, I had just visited the estate that very morning, so I was in a Cappellano state of mind.
Cellar Favorite: 1970 La Tour Haut-Brion
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Nov 2019
I admit I have a penchant for deceased châteaux, perhaps none more so than La Tour Haut-Brion since it provided such a bevy of memorable bottles. Its history is entwined with that of La Mission Haut-Brion.
Cellar Favorite: 1994 Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc 1er Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Nov 2019
It is a pity that Aligoté must reside in the shadow of Chardonnay. Too often it is dismissed, not only by consumers, but winemakers themselves since many “forget” to show me their Bourgogne Aligoté during cellar visits. Thankfully in recent years there has been a reappraisal of Aligoté spearheaded by Marsannay-based Sylvain Pataille and the grape is finally receiving due respect.