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Cellar Favorite: 1992-2011 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, May 2019
I feel that people sometimes look down on Jadot’s Clos Saint-Jacques because unlike the other four, it is part of a large company’s portfolio rather than a family domaine. However, in blind tastings I find it stands shoulder to shoulder with the competition.
Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999
featured, France: Burgundy
, May 2019
The second part of my Mature Burgundy article brushes the dust off a unique treasure trove of bottles stretching back to the 19th century. These notes, accumulated over many months, include wines that might never be tasted again. Are they as magical as their prices would suggest? What makes them magical if they are?
Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014
featured, France: Burgundy
, May 2019
With in excess of 500 Burgundy tasting notes accumulated over many months, it was high time they see the light of day. This first of a two-part report broaches the 21st century, including mini-horizontals of several vintages at all levels of the hierarchy and unsurprisingly, all levels of quality.
Cellar Favorite: 2014 Domaine d’Eugénie Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2019
I suspect that many wine lovers are unaware of the domaine’s white cuvées, which come from holdings acquired by François Pinault from Château de Puligny-Montrachet around 2012/2013.
Fermented Grape Juice: Romanée-Conti 1953-2005
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2019
They say that dreams come true. Well, I am still waiting for Southend United to win the FA Cup and Keira Knightley to call. But I no longer have to dream about a vertical of Domaine Romanée-Conti. It really happened. And I am going to tell you about it.
Vinous Table: Le Bistro de L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2019
One of my favorite places to eat during my Burgundy barrel tastings is Le Bistro de l’Hôtel, located in central Beaune overlooking Place Carnot. Established in 2007 by Stockholm-born Johan Bjorkland, it is upmarket yet unpretentious.
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Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2019
This past December seemed an ideal time for me to taste a vertical collection of the Domaine des Lambrays’ historic Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays going back to the 1960s. Under the steady hand of widely respected estate manager/winemaker Thierry Brouin, the Clos des Lambrays has been restored to Grand Cru status after decades of neglect.
Cellar Favorite: 2012 Domaine G. Roumier Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2019
Usually we either read about Burgundies as new releases or as older, mature wines. It is harder to find impressions on Burgundies in the 7-10 year-old range that are both drinking well and possibly available in the market or on restaurant lists at less than the stratospheric prices the most coveted Burgundies command these days. For those reasons I thought it might be interesting to feature Christophe Roumier’s 2012 Clos de la Bussière as this week’s Cellar Favorite.
Faiveley’s Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley: 1986-2015
featured, France: Burgundy
, March 2019
The new generation at Faiveley has taken some of the tannic edges off the estate’s outsized Clos des Cortons, making this powerfully built, long-lived Burgundy more palatable in its youth. This vertical back to 1986 provided a unique opportunity to follow the arc of Faiveley’s flagship wine over four decades.
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This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis
featured, France: Burgundy
, March 2019
Morey-Saint-Denis does not get its fair share of coverage vis-à-vis other Burgundy appellations, so when three Morey-based producers showcased their wines in London, I looked forward to redressing the imbalance. That was the plan. It didn’t quite work out that way...