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Refusing to Follow the Script: Jean-Marie Guffens

France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Neal Martin, Feb 2020

The outspoken Jean-Marie Guffens has spent almost four decades making superb Mâconnais wines. This retrospective would always be entertaining. But what do Blade Runner and Pink Floyd have to do with it?

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Vinous Table: L'Expression, Beaune, France

Vinous Table, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Feb 2020

L'Expression is a welcome addition to the dining scene in Beaune. A seasonal menu and fabulous wine list make a lunch or dinner at L'Expression a must.

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Vinous Table: Au Fil du Zinc, Chablis, France

Vinous Table, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Feb 2020

Au Fil du Zinc is a local institution in Chablis. The place to go. An inventive menu married with a killer wine list and a casual environment make Au Fil du Zinc a must for readers visiting Chablis.

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Cellar Favorite: 1945 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Feb 2020

I LOVE HALF-BOTTLES! Phew, it feels good to come clean. I am well aware how everyone bangs on about magnums as the optimal format for maturing wine. Received wisdom is that half-bottles cannot age. Rubbish! Go and taste a few.

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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s

France: Burgundy, featured

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2020

I found a lot to like in the 2018s and 2017s, wines from two very different vintages. The 2018s are open-knit and fleshy, while the 2017s are built along much more classic lines. I also came across a number of new or newly revitalized domaines making truly compelling wines.

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Vinous Table: Hostellerie de Levernois, Beaune, France

Vinous Table, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2020

The Hostellerie’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a terrific choice for readers who want a more relaxed experience. A spacious room, verdant views and tables set far apart add to a feeling of serenity that is pretty relaxing for this city boy.

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Cellar Favorite: 1957 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jan 2020

Over the last two decades I have visited practically all the major domaines in the Côte d’Or. There is one glaring and unforgivable omission: Ramonet.

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Cellar Favorite: 2014 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Jan 2020

I had tasted many vintages from barrel but never the finished article until a friend from the Far East invited me to choose any bottle from the enormous wine list at Maison de Colombier in Beaune. I knew instantly which one I wanted: the 2014 Clos des Lambrays from Taupenot-Merme. And it had only taken me 20 years!

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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations

France: Burgundy, featured

Neal Martin, Jan 2020

Burgundy can be confounding at the best of times, both in a positive and negative sense. For many, that’s part of its allure. The 2018 vintage sprung many surprises, thankfully many of them positive. The bigger question is whether it is a harbinger of things to come.

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Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Perrières 1984-2014

France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured

Stephen Tanzer, Dec 2019

The finest vintages made by Dominique Lafon at his family domaine clearly demonstrate that Meursault’s mineral-driven premier cru Les Perrières is capable of producing wines with grand cru mineral intensity, precision, nuance and longevity.