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Cellar Favorite: 1959 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut Saint-Jacques 1er Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jul 2019
During last November’s visit, following a tasting of his 2017s, Duroché said that he had something else he wished me taste, and did I have time? Well, the answer to that question is always affirmative.
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Cellar Favorite: 1979 Domaine Georges Roumier Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jul 2019
You could make a strong argument that this Burgundy is the most significant of all my contributions to Vinous’ Cellar Favorites column. Maybe without it, things would have been different.
Burgundy Odds & Ends
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jul 2019
While it is undoubtedly thrilling to taste Burgundy’s most important and coveted wines, these days I get just as much pleasure from discovering wines from lesser appellations and producers that remain a bit under the radar. In other words, wines that the average consumer can still find and acquire without taking out a second mortgage.
Compare & Contrast - DRC & Leroy
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jun 2019
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leroy. Each producer is an icon and has their own clearly distinguishable style. Why do they have so much in common, and yet are often so distinctive from each other? This article, based on a blind tasting of wines from the same vineyards and vintages, seeks to explain why. Time to compare and contrast.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jun 2019
This fabulous charity dinner, held to benefit children’s oncology at The Mount Sinai Hospital, featured a breathtaking range of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Montrachet spanning 22 vintages back to 1978. It was a truly magical night of wine, food and conversation, all for a great cause.
No Oxymoron: Affordable Burgundy
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jun 2019
Affordable Burgundy is a phrase that seems to become more oxymoronic by the day as the price of blue-chip wines spirals towards irrationality. This article hopefully serves as a reminder that Burgundy that does not damage your wallet still exists.
Domaine Leroy – The Bottled 2016s
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jun 2019
“Am I going too fast?” Lalou Bize-Leroy asks as she takes me through her bottled 2016s. Not a chance. One of the first things I observed when I started visiting the domaine years ago was Lalou’s intense pace, which remains pretty much the same today. “I like to taste quickly,” she adds. “With wines its either ‘yes’ or ‘no’. There is no middle ground. Just like people.” That insight is one of many that emerge over the course of this remarkable survey of the 2016s.
Domaine Trapet Chambertin: 1949-2012
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, May 2019
Tireless work in the vineyards and a lighter hand in the winery have enabled Jean-Louis Trapet to restore his family’s estate to greatness in the 21st century. This remarkable vertical tasting of the flagship Chambertin encompassed most of the vintages made under Jean-Louis Trapet’s tenure, along with a handful of older gems from the Trapet family’s cellar.
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Cellar Favorite: 1992-2011 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, May 2019
I feel that people sometimes look down on Jadot’s Clos Saint-Jacques because unlike the other four, it is part of a large company’s portfolio rather than a family domaine. However, in blind tastings I find it stands shoulder to shoulder with the competition.
Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999
France: Burgundy, featured
, May 2019
The second part of my Mature Burgundy article brushes the dust off a unique treasure trove of bottles stretching back to the 19th century. These notes, accumulated over many months, include wines that might never be tasted again. Are they as magical as their prices would suggest? What makes them magical if they are?