Vinous Table: Il Silene, Pescina, Italy
Italy: Center & South, Vinous Table
, Jun 2019
I have wanted to eat at Il Silene for many years but had always been put off by its location, which is not especially convenient to the tasting circuit. What a mistake that turned out to be. This spectacular lunch proved Il Silene is very much worth a special trip.
Lazio: New Vintages, New Discoveries
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Jun 2019
Lazio’s finest estates are making wines of a level that was unthinkable just a few years ago. Though still mostly under the radar, be they white, red, pink, sparkling or sweet, a number of Lazio’s wines are truly world-class.
Campania: More Than Just Fiano, Greco and Aglianico
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Nov 2018
Campania is one of Italy’s best sources of distinctive white wines. A large number of indigenous grapes are matched to an equally diverse set of microclimates that give birth to striking wines. The reds are a bit of a mixed bag and run the gamut from extraordinary to overoaked and rustic wines that don’t always capture the full potential the region has to offer. Even so, Campania’s finest reds remain captivating.
New Releases from Abruzzo and Molise: A Mixed Bag
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Sep 2018
Current releases from Abruzzo and Molise are mostly white wines from the very hot, dry, challenging 2017 growing season and fresh reds from the more classic 2016 harvest. Vintage difficulties aside, these regions offer many pleasant surprises, not to mention some stunning bargains.
Vinous Table: Terrazza Vittoria, Sorrento, Italy
Italy: Center & South, Vinous Table
, Sep 2018
The Terrazza Vittoria in Sorrento is the beautiful terrace restaurant of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, which offers a simple but fine lunch menu of classics in breathtakingly beautiful surroundings.
Vinous Table: Mammà, Capri, Italy
Italy: Center & South, Vinous Table
, Aug 2018
Mammà offers striking views and terrific food and wine in one of the world’s most singularly beautiful places, the island of Capri. Professional service and a talented chef take care of the rest.
Sardinia's Wines: High Quality, Low Visibility
Italy: Center & South, featured
, March 2018
Sardinian wines have improved dramatically over the last two decades but remain relatively unknown. Numerous distinctive native grapes, wines in all colors and styles, and gentle prices are just some of the incentives for wine lovers everywhere.
Vinous Table: The Corner Townhouse, Rome, Italy
Italy: Center & South, Vinous Table
, Feb 2018
The Corner Townhouse is one of the many recently born Rome restaurants that are popular with the “in” crowd, but The Corner has potential to stick around thanks to its inventive food, decent wine list and a beautiful dining room.
New Releases from the Marche: Life Beyond Verdicchio?
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Feb 2018
The baseline quality level of the Marche’s wines is among the highest in Italy, with few truly bad wines these days. There are noteworthy peaks too, including some of Italy’s most ageworthy whites (made with Verdicchio) and unique aromatic reds (from the Lacrima and Vernaccia Nera varieties).
Tasca d’Almerita’s Rosso del Conte: 1979 – 2012
Italy: Center & South, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
, Oct 2017
Rosso del Conte is an iconic Italian wine, one of the first to show that southern Italy could produce world class, age-worthy reds. Rosso del Conte was tinkered with, over the years (not always succesfully, in my view,) but is back to where it should be, showcasing the heights that Nero d’Avola (and Perricone) can reach in the right hands.