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Joseph Roty’s Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes

Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured

Stephen Tanzer, Feb 2019

The Roty family’s Charmes-Chambertin from ancient vines has established a half-century track record as one of Burgundy’s monumental collectibles. My extensive vertical tasting of this bottling in December was also a celebration of a very private family—and the ghost in the room was the formidable personality of the late Joseph Roty, who was largely responsible for creating the “Roty style.”

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Vertical Tasting of Louis Jadot’s Corton Pougets

Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured

Stephen Tanzer, Feb 2019

Jadot’s perfumed, distinctly feminine Corton Grand Cru—a red wine from white wine soil—has established a long track record for graceful evolution in bottle.

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Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015

Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

Today, Pichon-Baron is one of Bordeaux’s most popular wines, but it took many years, hard work and investment to get there. This articles traces its ascent from under-performer to Left Bank superstar via one of the most comprehensive verticals ever conducted at the château, an objective examination of the last four decades and beyond, plus a look at its sister property, Château Pibran.

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Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016

Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured

Stephen Tanzer, Jun 2019

The largest single owner of land in Clos de Vougeot is making some of its best wines today. Director François Labet’s special bottling from vines planted in 1910 has been an essence of this legendary grand cru in recent years.

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Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015

Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured

Neal Martin, Jan 2019

True, Brane-Cantenac has had its ups and downs over the years, but it is now creating some of its best ever wines. In one of the most comprehensive verticals ever written, I examine the estate from its formation to the present day and what influences the character of this singular Margaux.

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Ceretto Barbaresco Asili: 1974-2014

Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Piedmont, Piedmont, featured

Ian D'Agata, Dec 2018

Asili is arguably one of Italy’s greatest vineyards, and Ceretto owns probably its best section, the bricco at the top of the hill. Ceretto’s Barbaresco Asili ages splendidly and can rightly claim its place among Italy’s most distinctive red wines.

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Port Is For Life: Symington Vintage & Tawny Ports

Portugal, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Fortified Wines & Spirits, Fortified Wines & Spirits

Neal Martin, Dec 2018

“Port is for life, not just for Christmas.” True, though I am sure sales figures would confirm that more bottles of port, in all its multifarious forms - Vintage, Ruby, Tawny, Single Quinta, Colheita, White or Crusted - are ceremoniously passed to the left over the festive period than at any other time of the year. So it would be remiss of me not to offer Vinous readers an early Christmas present in the shape of a port-themed article.

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Eternal Leroy: 1937-2010

Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured

Antonio Galloni, Oct 2018

I still remember the first time I visited Domaine Leroy. It was a much earlier time in my tasting and writing career. As I walked into the understated winery in Vosne-Romanée I noticed the walls covered with photographs of what looked like incredible tastings. Gently softened by the passage of time, those photos bore testament to the extraordinary legacy built by Lalou Bize-Leroy and her late husband, Marcel Bize, over the six decades they spent together. My mind wandered as I imagined what it might be like to attend one of those events. Little did I know that in the coming years I would have the opportunity to participate in several historic tastings at both Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay, Lalou Bize-Leroy’s home estate in the hills outside Meursault.

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Golden Oldies & Goodies: The Ageworthiness of Verdicchio

Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy, featured

Ian D'Agata, Oct 2018

Long overlooked and underrated, Verdicchio is starting to make a name for itself, not just for delicious, easily affordable site-specific whites, but for surprisingly ageworthy wines too.

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Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum: 1993-2015

Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Alsace

Ian D'Agata, Oct 2018

Albert Mann is admired for wines of remarkable purity and precision. Arguably most famous for their Riesling Schlossberg and Pinot Noir bottlings, the estate’s Gewurztraminer Furstentum is just as outstanding, showcasing how well this variety can age in Alsace.