The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2019
A unique vertical of Rauzan-Ségla that spanned more than a century was the catalyst for this in-depth château profile, which charts the course of the Margaux Second Growth from its origins under Pierre de Rauzan to the present day under Nicolas Audebert. Everything you ever wanted to know about Rauzan-Ségla should be here.
Beaulieu’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve: 1965–2016
Verticals & Retrospectives, United States: California, featured
, Apr 2019
Beaulieu Vineyard’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet is California’s first cult Cabernet. Adamantly Médoc-like in its earlier decades, it has evolved with the times. Recent vintages are as remarkable as ever, if in a more modern style.
An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2019
A bottle of 1990 La Dominique opened my eyes to the joys of Saint-Émilion, yet recent vintages have perplexingly blown hot and cold. Last year I visited the estate to discover more and conduct a vertical tasting that would either confirm or refute my misgivings.
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Remembering Gianfranco Soldera
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Apr 2019
In a brilliant career that spanned five decades, Gianfranco Soldera established himself as one of the world’s most inspired and iconic winemakers. His untimely passing in an accident last February leaves an immeasurable void. Soldera’s wines remain an enduring legacy of his remarkable life and complex, rich personality.
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Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Burgundy
, Apr 2019
This past December seemed an ideal time for me to taste a vertical collection of the Domaine des Lambrays’ historic Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays going back to the 1960s. Under the steady hand of widely respected estate manager/winemaker Thierry Brouin, the Clos des Lambrays has been restored to Grand Cru status after decades of neglect.
Setting Sail - Malartic-Lagravière 1916 - 2013
France: Bordeaux, featured
, Apr 2019
Sailing into port this week is Malartic-Lagravière. Resurrected by the Bonnie family since the late-1990s, it has become one of the finest Pessac-Léognan estates. This piece examines its nautical-tinged history, present techniques and reviews both recent and mature vintages.
Spain’s Northern Regions Keep It Cool
featured, Spain
, Mar 2019
Spain’s northern, Atlantic Ocean–influenced winegrowing zones were virtually unknown to most wine lovers only a decade ago, but things have changed dramatically. The popularity of some of Spain’s high-quality red wines and racy whites from the area continues a steep upward trajectory.
What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015
France: Bordeaux, featured
, March 2019
Sauternes might not be fashionable at the moment; however, the wines remain quite brilliant and often represent great value. The first in a series of verticals looks at one of the finest properties, Château Suduiraut, with one of the most comprehensive verticals you will ever read spanning three centuries.
2014 Brunello di Montalcino and 2013 Riservas
Italy: Tuscany, featured
, March 2019
The 2014 Brunellos and the 2013 Riservas are polar opposites, the products of one of the most challenging vintages in memory (2014) and a very good, classic year (2013). And yet, both vintages have something to offer, if in completely different ways; the much-better-than-expected 2014s boast early appeal and can be enjoyed now while the 2013 Riservas mature in the cellar.
Faiveley’s Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley: 1986-2015
featured, France: Burgundy
, March 2019
The new generation at Faiveley has taken some of the tannic edges off the estate’s outsized Clos des Cortons, making this powerfully built, long-lived Burgundy more palatable in its youth. This vertical back to 1986 provided a unique opportunity to follow the arc of Faiveley’s flagship wine over four decades.