featured, United States: California
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, 2017 yielded yet another exceptional harvest for Paso Robles. It’s the latest in a stretch of outstanding vintages that extends, unbroken, back to 2011, which was by no means a truly bad year. The best wines deftly combine richness and energy, with a balance of fruit and structure that is compelling.
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
I LOVE HALF-BOTTLES! Phew, it feels good to come clean. I am well aware how everyone bangs on about magnums as the optimal format for maturing wine. Received wisdom is that half-bottles cannot age. Rubbish! Go and taste a few.
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
Is Wheelers worth the schlep down from London? Well, if you want outstanding seafood without paying a king’s ransom, then certainly.
France: Burgundy, featured
I found a lot to like in the 2018s and 2017s, wines from two very different vintages. The 2018s are open-knit and fleshy, while the 2017s are built along much more classic lines. I also came across a number of new or newly revitalized domaines making truly compelling wines.
Mogadisco - Dancing Mogadishu (Somalia 1972-1991) is a considerable achievement for Samy Ben Redjeb, and the mere fact that this compilation exists is thanks to people like Colonel Ali, who risked his life to protect the recordings for so many years.
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Other
There are few enigmas left in wine. The Internet can tell you anything about everything. However, Clos Joliette, the most revered producer in the Jurançon, remains shrouded in mystery and intrigue. This article sheds light on its history and its present status, as well as examining recent releases.
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Recently I encountered a bottle of 1924 Filhot, the oldest example that I have tasted, and it proved that Filhot can create a wonderful, life-affirming, vibrant and downright delicious Sauternes that effortlessly defies time.
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
The Hostellerie’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a terrific choice for readers who want a more relaxed experience. A spacious room, verdant views and tables set far apart add to a feeling of serenity that is pretty relaxing for this city boy.
featured, germany: Mosel
Along the Mosel, local weather conditions, vine genetics and snap picking decisions counted in 2017 for almost as much as site, viticultural regimen or talent. Superb wines are numerous, but still the exceptions.
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Italy: Center & South
Gulfi was the first winery in Sicily to believe in single-contrada Nero d’Avolas. Today, Gulfi makes four such wines that highlight the extraordinary diversity of these sites, all of them so well-suited to showing the potential of Sicily’s indigenous Nero d’Avola. This vertical spanned a representative selection of the Nerosanloré - arguably the most elegant of the wines.