Vinous Table: Trattoria del Cimino da Colombo, Caprarola, Italy
Italy, Vinous Table
, March 2019
Trattoria del Cimino is one of Italy’s best country trattorias, boasting expertly sourced ingredients, local wines and authentic recipes that explain almost 70 years of happy diners and culinary success.
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Joseph Roty’s Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes
Verticals & Retrospectives, France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2019
The Roty family’s Charmes-Chambertin from ancient vines has established a half-century track record as one of Burgundy’s monumental collectibles. My extensive vertical tasting of this bottling in December was also a celebration of a very private family—and the ghost in the room was the formidable personality of the late Joseph Roty, who was largely responsible for creating the “Roty style.”
Beyond Wine: Album Review of Quiet Signs – Jessica Pratt
Beyond Wine
, Feb 2019
Quiet Signs is a late night album, the kind you slip on after the kids have gone to bed. Dim the lights, close your eyes and just wallow in this music.
Hurdling Over Time: 19th-Century Madeira
Portugal, featured
, Feb 2019
In 2019 Madeira celebrates 600 years as a populated island. This report examines the history of Madeira wine and why its apparent agelessness. Focused on a momentous tasting of 19th-century Terrantez and augmented by additional notes, with a combined bottle age of 6,000 years, it is a veritable journey through time.
Sartarelli Verdicchio Balciana: 2007-2015
Italy: North, Italy, featured
, Feb 2019
A wine with an undoubtedly long name, Balciana is deservedly also long on fame. One of Italy’s 20 or 30 best dry white wines, Balciana’s viscous, late-harvested personality makes it the closest thing to a great Alsace white that Italy offers.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Egon Müller Scharzhof Scharzhofberger Riesling Beerenauslese
germany: Mosel, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Feb 2019
I have not drunk many 1971 Rieslings, but whenever the occasion does arise, I tend to be blown away, which is what happened when Egon Müller IV poured a birth-year gem in Beaune last November.
Vinous Table: Le Saint-Placide, Saint-Malo, France
France, Vinous Table
, Feb 2019
An isle of refined gastronomic tranquillity, the very pretty setting and precise, flavorful cuisine make Saint-Malo’s Le Saint-Placide one of the year’s restaurant discoveries.
Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time
Italy, Italy: Tuscany, featured
, Feb 2019
As Vinous readers know, I have long championed Chianti Classico as a source for pedigreed, ageworthy wines that the average consumer can still afford. That is, thankfully, still true. In 2015 and 2016, wine lovers will find two genuinely great back to back vintages that arrive precisely at a time when producers are seeking greater finesse and precision. The results are nothing less than thrilling.
Rioja Looks Back and Ahead
featured, Spain
, Feb 2019
Traditionally made Riojas are having a moment. Old-school, elegant Riojas have caught the attention of collectors and sommeliers around the world, putting pressure on the supply of some of the region’s most famous wines. At the same time, a number of modern-leaning producers have begun to throttle back on assertive oak, extraction and alcohol levels, which is a highly welcome development. The recent 2016, 2015 and 2014 vintages have been very good to outstanding, with healthy yields that ensure there’s plenty of wine to go around.
Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016
France, France: Burgundy, featured
, Feb 2019
Over the years, I have been fortunate to participate in three or four verticals of Clos de Tart. Yet I had never undertaken a comprehensive tasting that spans decades until Jordi Oriols-Gil organized a unique retrospective covering more than 50 years at Ten Trinity in London.