Paso Robles Can’t Stop Winning
featured, United States: California
, Feb 2020
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, 2017 yielded yet another exceptional harvest for Paso Robles. It’s the latest in a stretch of outstanding vintages that extends, unbroken, back to 2011, which was by no means a truly bad year. The best wines deftly combine richness and energy, with a balance of fruit and structure that is compelling.
Cellar Favorite: 1945 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy
, Feb 2020
I LOVE HALF-BOTTLES! Phew, it feels good to come clean. I am well aware how everyone bangs on about magnums as the optimal format for maturing wine. Received wisdom is that half-bottles cannot age. Rubbish! Go and taste a few.
Vinous Table: Wheeler’s Oyster Bar, Kent, United Kingdom
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Jan 2020
Is Wheelers worth the schlep down from London? Well, if you want outstanding seafood without paying a king’s ransom, then certainly.
Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s
France: Burgundy, featured
, Jan 2020
I found a lot to like in the 2018s and 2017s, wines from two very different vintages. The 2018s are open-knit and fleshy, while the 2017s are built along much more classic lines. I also came across a number of new or newly revitalized domaines making truly compelling wines.
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Beyond Wine: Album Review of Mogadisco - Dancing Mogadishu Somalia 1972-1991 - Various Artists
Beyond Wine
, Jan 2020
Mogadisco - Dancing Mogadishu (Somalia 1972-1991) is a considerable achievement for Samy Ben Redjeb, and the mere fact that this compilation exists is thanks to people like Colonel Ali, who risked his life to protect the recordings for so many years.
Resurrecting the Mystery: Clos Joliette
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, France: Other
, Jan 2020
There are few enigmas left in wine. The Internet can tell you anything about everything. However, Clos Joliette, the most revered producer in the Jurançon, remains shrouded in mystery and intrigue. This article sheds light on its history and its present status, as well as examining recent releases.
Cellar Favorite: 1924 Château Filhot
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Jan 2020
Recently I encountered a bottle of 1924 Filhot, the oldest example that I have tasted, and it proved that Filhot can create a wonderful, life-affirming, vibrant and downright delicious Sauternes that effortlessly defies time.
Vinous Table: Hostellerie de Levernois, Beaune, France
Vinous Table, France: Burgundy
, Jan 2020
The Hostellerie’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a terrific choice for readers who want a more relaxed experience. A spacious room, verdant views and tables set far apart add to a feeling of serenity that is pretty relaxing for this city boy.
Multifarious 2017 Mosels, Part 1: Winningen to Wehlen
featured, germany: Mosel
, Jan 2020
Along the Mosel, local weather conditions, vine genetics and snap picking decisions counted in 2017 for almost as much as site, viticultural regimen or talent. Superb wines are numerous, but still the exceptions.
Gulfi Nero d’Avola Nerosanloré: 2001-2015
Verticals & Retrospectives, featured, Italy: Center & South
, Jan 2020
Gulfi was the first winery in Sicily to believe in single-contrada Nero d’Avolas. Today, Gulfi makes four such wines that highlight the extraordinary diversity of these sites, all of them so well-suited to showing the potential of Sicily’s indigenous Nero d’Avola. This vertical spanned a representative selection of the Nerosanloré - arguably the most elegant of the wines.