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The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths

Rioja finds itself at a crossroads. Like many a great story, Rioja is being challenged by small and mid-size producers over its identity. A dynamic and fascinating scenario is unfolding as a result, reflected in the almost 800 bottles that make up this report. Certain producers' enthusiasm and stylistic exploration are inspiring amidst a general decline in sales, defining a wine landscape as diverse as it is attractive. Rioja is currently an adventure of contrasts and discoveries.

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Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982

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2019 Château Montus and Bouscassé: A Premiere Glance

Nz whites vineyard

2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage

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Disznókő Tokaji: Latest Releases

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Alsace 2022 Whites – A Lucky Escape

Danbury bottles

The Only Way Is Essex: Danbury Ridge

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Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses

Gruaud larose recent bottles

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018

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Trentino-Alto Adige: Pushing the Limits

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Evoe! German and Austrian Sekt Report

Vinous Table

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Gyo-kaijin, Kanazawa, Japan

Gyo-kaijin encapsulates everything life-affirming about Japan’s dining scene. It is inexpensive, has impeccable service, a lively ambiance and, most of all, a standard of cuisine that you have to eat to believe.

Setsuri beef

Kanazawa Setsuri, Kanazawa

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Takasegawa, Kyoto, Japan

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Tempura Matsu, Kyoto, Japan

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Koumoto, Tokyo, Japan

Vinous Favorites

2023 Abbazia di Novacella Kerner

2023 Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, 91 points

The 2023 Kerner is delicately floral in the glass. Sweet spice and candied lime open in the bouquet. Vibrant acidity, saline minerals and tart citrus add a zesty character throughout. The 2023 reverberates with tension through a long, cheek-puckering finale laced with chamomile and lemon zest. (EG)


Cellar Favorites

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1993 Domaine de Chevalier

Last October, I was in Bordeaux during the autumn Porte Ouverte days, when locals can tour châteaux and attend evening dinners, many of which are inexpensive to take part in. I was tasting the 2021s on the same day as Domaine de Chevalier’s soirées, and proprietor Olivier Bernard invited me, along with around 200 other guests. With so many people, you need a large bottle!

1990 Latour à Pomerol

2014 M & C Lapierre Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV

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