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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Mar 2023
Apart from interesting backstories, Beychevelle has passed between some of the most powerful families in France over nearly a millennium. This article stems from a vertical tasting of 25 vintages marking the quarter-century of Philippe Blanc’s tenure, plus a handful of notes for wines back to 1929.
Cellar Favorite: 1986 Penfolds Shiraz Kalimna Bin 28
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia
, Mar 2023
Back a few years ago, I was tasting a lot of Penfolds and was fortunate enough to participate in a few epic verticals of this iconic Australian producer. Sadly, commitments towards Bordeaux and Burgundy mean I taste bottles less frequently; however, I was reminded of their unerring longevity at a recent BYO at the Harwood Arms to celebrate my birthday.
Vinous Table: Kitchen W8, London, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Mar 2023
Kitchen W8 is well worth seeking out. I enjoyed the local, relaxed ambiance, perhaps things moving at a slightly slower pace here than elsewhere in the city. Prices are more reasonable than many, especially for lunch and early evening, and the quality of cooking is very assured and unpretentious.
Emilia-Romagna: Opposite Ends of the Spectrum
Italy: Center & South, featured
, Mar 2023
While Lambrusco is still king in Emilia, over in Romagna, a few wineries are showing the heights Sangiovese can reach if treated properly. The best part is that these lesser-known wines continue to offer great value in the market.
Not Classed, but Classy: Haut-Bergeron 1961-2019
featured, France: Bordeaux, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Mar 2023
Sauternes articles tend to focus on major châteaux. But in this piece, I shine the spotlight on a less familiar name, one whose wines punch above their weight: Haut-Bergeron.
Cellar Favorite: 2019 Niepoort Batuta and Redoma
Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2023
I am a big fan of Dirk Niepoort’s fortified and non-fortified wines. Earlier this year, I tasted his latest releases. Two of them will offer pleasure in the near term but are also worthy of cellaring.
Vinous Table: Côte, Guildford, UK
Vinous Table, United Kingdom
, Mar 2023
It had been a thoroughly satisfying meal that delivered above my modest expectations. Not everyone yearns to dine at high-class restaurants or can pay for it. Many contentedly live their life within limited culinary horizons. Côte caters to them and does it well. The fact that guests can BYOB is an added bonus. Having teetered on the brink of survival a couple of years ago, it’s important that chains like these are thriving. I will be back.
Keller Excellence
Germany, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Mar 2023
For nearly 20 years, Klaus Peter Keller has almost surely been Germany’s most written-about wine grower, both at home and abroad. What makes his estate perhaps the most exciting in Germany today? This article takes a close look at the people, places and mystique surrounding Weingut Keller, including detailed notes on wines from vintages 2019-2021.
Money Well Spent: Domaine de L’Arlot: 1959-2019
France: Burgundy, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Mar 2023
A few months ago, winemaker Géraldine Godot flew over to London to present a fascinating tasting of recent vintages from Domaine de L’Arlot in Nuits-Saint-Georges, including a rare vertical of their Romanée-Saint-Vivant.
Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2023 Releases
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2023
Since 2012, Château Latour has released their three wines onto the market according to when vintages are deemed ready instead of the orthodox spring following harvest. I visited the estate in late January to assess the trio due to see the light of day. where I tasted with technical director Hélène Genin.