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Vinous Table: Luca, London, UK

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, May 2024

Let’s cut to the chase. Luca boasts a thick, juicy book of Italian vino that covers the entire ‘boot’, a mixture of marquee names and cult producers that is worthy of entry alone. It’s not a treasure trove of unmissable bargains; to that end, I don’t want to give the false impression of some backwater bistro naively adding 10% to wines bought just after the war. (C’mon, we all dream of those.) Our lunch bill was punchy despite steering wallets clear of Super-Tuscans and blue-chip Barolos. But what you do get for your hard-earned money is some of the best Italian food the capital currently offers, together with a gorgeous wine, irrespective of budget, in a restaurant that is beloved by all who enter.

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The Yin and the Yang of Western Australia

Australia, featured

Angus Hughson, May 2024

Western Australia remains a beacon of hope and value in a world of stratospheric fine wine prices. This report shows that, pound for pound, few regions can match Margaret River for finely crafted Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. My first coverage of the emerging regions of Great Southern and Pemberton also showcases wines that are surprising for their subtlety and diversity.

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New Zealand’s Latest Red Releases: Growing Up

New Zealand, featured

Rebecca Gibb MW, May 2024

New Zealand is considered a young wine-producing country. Its early success was built on drink-me-now Sauvignon Blanc. However, its vines and winemakers are maturing, and time is showing that the country’s wines are now coming of age some 200 years after the first vines were planted.

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Cellar Favorite: 1994 Penfolds Grange and 1975 Bin 95 Grange Hermitage

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia

Neal Martin, May 2024

During my time in Bordeaux tasting barrel samples, I spend most evenings essentially harvesting tasting notes for my annual “Centuries Of…” article that will appear in due course. Ironically, perhaps the best bottle of wine with a vintage ending in four was not from either the Left or Right Bank but from Australia.

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Vinous Table: The Modern, New York City, NY

United States: New York, Vinous Table

Antonio Galloni, May 2024

I was excited when my dining companion booked a table at The Modern for this recent lunch. I had not been to The Modern in quite some time, so I was very much looking forward to going back. Over the years, I have had some very good experiences here and some that have been rather lackluster, hence my long absence. Walking into the dining room felt like a refreshing new beginning in a place I have often loved.

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Alsace 2022 Reds: Continuing Their Trajectory

France: Alsace, featured

Anne Krebiehl MW, May 2024

Alsace Pinot Noir continues to show its mettle. Most of the wines I tasted for this report are from the warm 2022 vintage, so sumptuous black cherry flavors abound, but happily free from the sins of over-oaking and over-extraction. The limestone-based wines are the clear winners. While the entry-level reds provide immense fresh-faced joy with their juiciness, the top wines need not shy away from the global limelight. The 2021 Pinot Noirs are trickier, but the best come with seductive slenderness and red-fruited brightness.

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Cellar Favorite: 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage

South Africa, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, May 2024

Ancient South African ports have a cult following, and though they are not cheap due to demand, they represent outstanding value compared to other wines.

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Vinous Table: The Devonshire, London, UK

Vinous Table, United Kingdom

Neal Martin, May 2024

The Devonshire is not perfect, but it does things perfectly. It’s currently the place to be seen in London, and you’ll want to return—so will the rest of the world. It’s pub food taken to the nth degree. There’s no snootiness. There is a lot of noise and laughter. It’s hectic and perhaps teeters on chaos. You’ll love it.

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Marche Stays the Course Amidst Future Uncertainty

Italy: Center & South, featured

Eric Guido, May 2024

The writing for Marche is on the wall. Quality remains exceptionally high. A new focus on terroir and a focus on exalting a sense of place has been wildly successful. Moreover, the wines remain extremely well-priced. That said, Marche faces significant challenges in maintaining its share of international markets.

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Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie

France: Rhône & Beaujolais, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites

Neal Martin, Apr 2024

When someone whispers into your ear, particularly my ear, that you will never drink this bottle again, the aforementioned ear perks up. The 1938 Côte-Rôtie from Paul Jaboulet Aîné had lived its entire life in a cool dank cellar over in the West Country, so factor in perfect provenance. Though the bottle states Jaboulet on the label, it is more accurate to look at this as an amalgamation of all the growers in Côte-Rôtie at the time since hardly any bottled themselves.