1978 Etienne Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline


La Mouline debuted in 1966, a year after the family purchased a 1.5-hectare limestone-rich plot of old Syrah vines interpolated with around 10% Viognier in the heart of Côte Blonde from esteemed winemaker, Joannes Dervieux. This was five years after 23-year-old Marcel Guigal took the helm. Like nowadays, this Côte-Rôtie underwent long maturation in pièce: 42 months in new barrels, a modus operandi introduced in 1971.

Showing modest bricking on the rim at 44-years of age, the cornucopia of aromas here is entrancing. With scents of mulberry, singed leather, camphor, dried fig, hints of game and fireside hearth, the 1978 La Mouline is mercurial in the glass, shape shifting with every moment. It possesses stunning delineation. The palate does not disappoint. This is perfectly balanced with melted tannins, velvety in texture with slightly gamey red fruit, truffle, wild mint, cloves and thyme. With its cashmere mouthfeel, it appears to have borrowed the texture from a top-class Romanée-Saint-Vivant! It's an almost faultless display, gaining harmony over 20-30 minutes, just a hint of VA gives the finish a gentle poke. This is a Côte-Rôtie with soul to spare, a Côte-Rôtie to take you to la la land. 98/Drink 2022-2045.

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