2004, 2006 & 2009 Boekenhoutskloof Semillon

BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 12, 2022

The inspiration for this Cellar Favourite was a sublime bottle of 2006 Semillon from Boekenhoutskloof, Franschhoek’s leading producer. Current winemaker Gottfried Mocke poured it after our tasting of recent releases, acting as evidence of how rewarding the Cape’s wines can be with age. This particular vintage was crafted by founder Mark Kent and came from the blocks planted in 1902 and 1942. Clear with light green, golden glints, the 2006 is fully mature on the nose, with scents of dried honey, lanolin, grilled walnut and a touch of smoke. A light resin note emerges over time. The palate is well balanced, with a fine acidic thread, waxy in texture and impressively focused. The first bottle had a touch of oxidation. Thankfully, a second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant on the finish, with a tang of stem ginger lingering on the aftertaste. Wonderful. 95/Drink 2022-2040.

Perusing my notes, I had almost forgotten that I tasted two more bottles with maturity during my stay. Firstly, the 2004 Semillon has a lovely bouquet with yellow plum, lemon sherbet and orange zest, even if it does not have the same vibrancy as the 2006. The palate is well balanced with a gorgeous creamy texture, lemon curd, ginger, rhubarb and white pepper. Drink this now as it won't get any better. 91/Drink 2022-2026. The 2009 Semillon is feisty on the nose, with touches of lanolin and white pepper. Hints of beeswax surface with time. The palate has a beautiful texture and fine depth, waxy and very phenolic with a persistent finish. This is almost in the same class as the splendid 2006 and still has plenty in the tank. 94/Drink 2022-2042.

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