2012 Pian dell'Orino Rosso di Montalcino 


Caroline Pobitzer and Jan Erbach came to Montalcino with the greatest wines of Gianfranco Soldera and Piero Palmucci of Poggio di Sotto in mind. During my recent visit to the estate, located on the southern hill of Montalcino, I found myself digging through biodynamic, insect repellent plants, witnessing vine training inspired by Roman texts and tiptoeing through their silent cellar, which resembles more of a womb than a winery. It should come as no surprise that they are making some of the best Brunello in the region, as well as Rosso di Montalcino. The 2012 is a perfect example of how we simply can't judge a book by its cover.

If forced to sum up this wine in one word, it would be "stunning". The 2012 Rosso di Montalcino from Pian dell’orino lights up the senses with the first tilt of the glass. Dusty, dried flowers, sandalwood and smoke give way to masses of wild strawberries, raspberries and hints of cedar. The 2012 has gained tremendously in volume and depth through bottle age. Its textures are like pure silk, jolted to life by bright acidity and tart cherry-berry fruits, combining with sweet plum and a twang of sour citrus. Salty minerals mingle with adolescent tannins that remain unwilling to fully let go, and instead mix with the 2012’s primary character to create a truly classic and youthful tug that reminds me more of Brunello than Rosso. This tapers off persistent and wholly satisfying with rosy florals, hints of leather and tart red currants. I wish I had bought multiple cases. 94/Drink 2021-2028.

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