2020 Domaine Bernard-Bonin Meursault La Rencontre


Domaine Bernard-Bonin is a Meursault-based producer that I would dearly love to visit. For reasons I will not go into here, so far, that has not been possible. This has not prevented me from enjoying the occasional bottle that has come my way. Nicolas and Véronique Bonin farm nine hectares of vines, most certified biodynamic by AB and Demeter, with minimal intervention in the winery, for example, eschewing racking during 18 months of barrel maturation. In early October, I was reminded of the exceptional quality of these wines at a lunch where one of their bottles found itself sandwiched between no less than Meursaults from Arnaud Ente and Coche-Dury.

Despite strong competition, the 2020 Meursault La Rencontre came out victorious. This cuvée emerges from two lieux-dits, Les Pelles and Sous La Velles, both populated with vines over 75 years old, matured with just 10% new oak. Lucid silvery in hue, the 2020 offers an exquisite bouquet laced with mineral-infused yellow fruit. It is almost Puligny in style, eliciting so much vibrancy and energy that it seems to be run off the mainline electricity. It’s amazingly well-focused. That is translated onto the palate, which has marvelous tension, with notes of linseed oil, yellow plums and orange pith. There is real depth and persistency in the mouth, a very subtle and unobtrusive reduction, plus a leesy finish that, thankfully, only gradually tapers away. It is a fantastic Meursault that will give 20, perhaps 30 years of drinking pleasure. 93/Drink 2025-2045.

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