Locanda nel Borgo Antico

Via Boschetti

4 12060 Barolo (CN) - Italy

tel +39 0173 356355

fax +39 0173 560935

August 2007

La Locanda del Borgo Antico is one of my favorite restaurants in Piedmont for a great all-around dining experience. The new Locanda, which relocated a few years ago, is set among the vineyards that straddle Barolo and Monforte. The décor is strikingly modern and minimalist with tables that are set far apart, all of which create a spacious and relaxed atmosphere. There is a semi-open terrace where guests can enjoy an aperitif while perusing the menu and watching a spectacular sunset over the vineyards when weather permits. Chef Massimo Camia offers a menu that combines lighter versions of the classic Piedmontese dishes as well as a variety of his own creations. The seared scallops were a nice departure from the meat starters that are more typical in these parts. Chef Camia’s lightly sauced agnolotti were sublime as we worked our way into the Barolos. The artichoke risotto with squid was absolutely delicious. The unsual flavor combination worked much better than I had expected. Rack of lamb is not found on too many menus in Piedmont, so it too offered a refreshing change of pace. Camia served the lamb on a scorching-hot stone designed to give each diner control over the temperature of the meat. It was a superb dish.

The 1991 Philiponnat Clos de Goisses was delicate, floral and still quite fresh. Made in a more linear, understated style for this wine, it really needed a couple of hours of air to come into its own, but when it did it was lovely. I was curious to check in on a couple of Barolos from 1997, a vintage whose wines are just starting to enter the early part of maturity. Cavallotto’s Barolo Bricco Boschis Riserva San Giuseppe was once again very impressive. In its youth it was rich and opulent, but with time it has lost some of its baby fat, turning more and more classic with each passing year. It revealed a gorgeous, floral aromatics and an expansive personality, with plenty of fruit as well as structure. Still quite fresh, it should continue to drink well for another 10-15 years, perhaps longer. This was a great showing for the 1997 San Giuseppe. The 1997 Barolo Brunate from Ceretto was more advanced than the Cavallotto in its color, aromas and flavors. It offered pretty notes of spices, smoke, macerated cherries and a full-bodied super-ripe personality. While the Cavallotto continued to open in the glass, the Ceretto unfortunately never developed into a more interesting wine.


Seared scallops over lardo purée

Agnolotti with a light tomato sauce

Artichoke risotto with squid

Rack of lamb with roasted vegetables



Philiponnat Clos de Goisses



Ceretto Barolo Brunate



Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe


[Photo and credit: Locanda nel Borgo Antico, Barolo, Italy]

--Antonio Galloni