Cf jan42021

Cellar Favorite: 2012 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Blanchot Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Jan 2021

It’s always a pleasure to pull a bottle of Raveneau from the cellar. These are among my favorite wines from anywhere in the world. Of all the domaines I once covered but have since handed off to other critics at Vinous, Raveneau might very well be the one I miss visiting most, as the wines are so often transcendental.

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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Nuits

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Dec 2020

The second part of my 2019 Burgundy report examines producers based in the Côte de Nuits. Did Pinot Noir excel or suffer in the warm, dry summer?

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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Beaune

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Dec 2020

As Burgundy contends with warmer, drier growing seasons, the 2019 vintage demonstrates how vine and winemaker are adapting and often thriving in the so-called “new normal”. First, we look at the Côte de Beaune.

Montchovet 2017

Cellar Favorite: 2017 Domaine Didier Montchovet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Nov 2020

Why a piddling Bourgogne Hautes-Côte de Whatever? What numbskull chooses to cellar such low ranking Burgundy? And who the hell is Didier Montchovet? Pull up a chair and let me explain why I chose this particular wine.

Comtes lafon mackerel

Cellar Favorite: 2015 Domaine des Comtes-Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Nov 2020

Why is there a photo depicting mackerel in this Cellar Favorite? Well, let me explain.

Dourhin montrachet vineyard

Joseph Drouhin “Monty and Moose”

featured, France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives

Neal Martin, Oct 2020

Who doesn’t enjoy munching through a packet of M&Ms? But these M&M’s are different: Montrachet & Musigny from Domaine Drouhin. I examine these two wines via separate verticals from recent vintages back to the 1940s.

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Cellar Favorite: 1955 Maison Leroy La Romanée Grand Cru

cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Oct 2020

Maison Leroy’s 1955 La Romanée Grand Cru is a historic wine for many reasons, and not just because of its age. It was the year Henri Leroy asked his daughter Lalou, then 23, to join the family business and help him select the wines for the maison’s portfolio. To this day, Lalou Bize-Leroy has an extraordinary memory of those early wines she tasted with her father.

Chablis serein

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019

featured, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Sep 2020

The 2018 and 2019 Chablis growing seasons are cut from a similar cloth, but on close examination there are crucial differences that sway their respective styles. This report compares the two and asks to what extent climate change might erode Chablis’ uniqueness.

Pot detain front

Vinous Table: Le Pot d’Etain, L’Isle-sur-Serein, France

Vinous Table, France: Burgundy

Neal Martin, Sep 2020

If pure enjoyment is the measure of a restaurant, then Le Pot d’Etain scored highly – certainly far higher than circumspect naysayers had led me to believe.

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2017 Domaine Leroy: Elegance, Finesse & Grace

featured, France: Burgundy

Antonio Galloni, Sep 2020

Burgundy is where I truly learned to taste wine. It is the best school. Essentially one variety for white, one for red and that’s it. The rest is all about place, about trying to understand how the attributes of a site are expressed in what is in the glass. Nowhere is that more true than at Domaine Leroy, where everything that Burgundy represents, its purest essence, is dialed up all the way.